A freshly painted RC body shell is one of the most satisfying parts of the hobby. Whether you are building a scale replica of your dream car or creating a wild custom design for your basher, painting your own RC body is a creative process that is very achievable for beginners with the right guidance. This guide covers everything a Filipino RC hobbyist needs to know about painting Lexan bodies in 2026 — from materials and technique to local buying options.
Lexan vs ABS Bodies: Know Your Material
RC car bodies come in two main materials: Lexan (polycarbonate) and ABS plastic. Understanding the difference is fundamental before you pick up a paintbrush.
Lexan (Polycarbonate) Bodies
Lexan is a brand name for polycarbonate plastic — flexible, lightweight, and extremely impact-resistant. Almost all 1:10 and 1:8 scale RC car bodies sold as raw shells are Lexan. When you crash at speed, a Lexan body flexes and bounces back rather than shattering. The key characteristic of Lexan bodies is that they are transparent when you purchase them — you paint them from the inside, and the clear exterior surface becomes the "top coat" naturally, eliminating the need for a separate clear coat step.
ABS Bodies
ABS plastic bodies are stiffer and heavier than Lexan but can be painted from the outside using standard hobby or rattle-can paints. ABS is common on scale accessories, scale crawlers with detailed body lines, and some 1:12 or 1:14 scale vehicles. ABS bodies do not require polycarbonate-specific paint — you can use standard hobby paints, primer, and clear coat.
This guide focuses primarily on Lexan bodies, as they are by far the most common type Filipino hobbyists will encounter.
Why You Paint Lexan from the Inside
This surprises many beginners: Lexan bodies are painted on the inside surface, not the outside. The paint is protected by the polycarbonate shell from the outside, which is why Lexan bodies do not need a separate clear coat — the shell itself IS the clear coat. This also means that when designing your paint scheme, you must think in reverse: the first color you apply will be what shows through from the outside on top, and the last color applied will show only where earlier layers do not cover.
Standard spray paints (like automotive rattle cans or hobby primer) will not adhere properly to Lexan and will eventually flake off. You must use paints specifically formulated for polycarbonate.
Recommended Paints for Lexan Bodies
Tamiya PS Series
The Tamiya PS series is the gold standard for Lexan body painting in the Philippine RC community. PS paints are formulated specifically for polycarbonate and are available in an enormous range of colors. They spray smoothly, adhere well, and the results are consistently professional. Tamiya PS cans are available at hobby shops across Metro Manila, Cebu, and Davao for approximately ₱280–₱380 per can. Common choices: PS-1 White (backer), PS-2 Red, PS-6 Yellow, PS-13 Gold, PS-59 Dark Metallic Blue.
Spaz Stix
Spaz Stix is an American brand popular for its metallic, chrome, and mirror finishes — effects that Tamiya PS cannot replicate. The Spaz Stix Mirror Chrome is legendary in the drift and show car community. Usually sourced via Shopee import sellers or hobby shop orders. Expect ₱500–₱800 per can. The chrome effect requires a true black backing immediately after application to achieve maximum reflectivity.
Pactra / Testors
Pactra (formerly a separate brand, now under Testors) offers polycarbonate paints in a mid-range price tier. Less common in the Philippines than Tamiya but occasionally found at hobby shops or via Shopee. Quality is comparable to Tamiya PS for most colors.
Tools You Will Need
- Sharp scissors — for cutting out the body along the trim lines
- Body reamer / hole punch — for cutting clean circular holes for body post mounts and lexan screws. A dull punch will crack the Lexan; a sharp reamer cuts cleanly
- Masking tape — Tamiya masking tape (yellow) is the standard. It conforms to curves without lifting and removes cleanly. Available at hobby shops and hardware stores for ₱80–₱250 per roll
- Masking liquid / liquid mask — brush-on mask for complex curves and windows
- Hobby knife / X-Acto — for cutting masking tape along body lines
- Clothespins or body clips — for hanging the body shell while painting
- Isopropyl alcohol (IPA) — for cleaning the inside surface before painting
Backing Paint Techniques
Because you paint from the inside, the final step in a Lexan paint job is always applying a "backer" to make the paint visible through the shell and give it a solid base color. Two main backing approaches:
White Backing
Apply Tamiya PS-1 White (or any white PC paint) as the final layer over your color coats. White backing makes all colors pop with maximum brightness and is the standard for light-colored schemes. Apply 2–3 light coats of white, allowing proper dry time between coats.
Black Backing
Black backing is used for darker color schemes or to add depth to metallic and candy-tone colors. It also maximizes the reflectivity of Spaz Stix mirror chrome finishes — apply chrome first, then immediately back with black. A black-backed metallic gold or silver body looks dramatically richer than one backed with white.
Step-by-Step Painting Process
- Step 1: Remove the protective film from the inside of the shell (leave the outside film on until you are completely done)
- Step 2: Wipe the inside with isopropyl alcohol and a lint-free cloth to remove oils and release agents
- Step 3: Apply masking tape to window frames, panel lines, and any areas you want to keep clear or a different color
- Step 4: Apply your first (outermost-showing) color in light, even coats. Hold the can 20–30 cm from the surface. Two thin coats beat one thick coat every time
- Step 5: Allow to dry (minimum 30 minutes between coats in Philippine humidity — longer is better)
- Step 6: Remove masks, re-mask for next color, apply second color areas
- Step 7: Apply your backer color (white or black) as the final interior layer
- Step 8: Allow to fully cure for 24 hours before trimming and mounting
- Step 9: Trim the body along the body lines using scissors. Cut from the inside out to prevent paint chipping on edges
- Step 10: Use your body reamer to make body post holes. Remove the outer protective film last
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
- Using regular spray paint on Lexan — it will flake and peel. Always use PC-specific paint
- Spraying too close or too heavy — causes runs and drips. Keep the can moving and apply thin coats
- Not cleaning the surface before painting — oils from hands prevent paint adhesion. Always wipe with IPA
- Painting in high humidity without proper dry time — in the Philippine climate, paints can blush (turn milky) if the layer is still wet when the next coat goes on. Be patient between coats
- Cutting holes with a screwdriver — always use a proper body reamer for clean, crack-free holes
- Peeling the outside film too early — the outside protective film keeps the shell scratch-free during painting. Remove it last
Custom vs Pre-Painted Bodies
If painting feels daunting, many Philippine hobby shops and online sellers offer pre-painted bodies — ready to trim, punch, and mount. Pre-painted bodies range from ₱600–₱2,500 depending on detail level. However, the satisfaction of a custom-painted body you designed yourself is a significant part of the hobby for many Filipino RC enthusiasts. Start simple — a two-color scheme with a racing stripe is entirely achievable on your first attempt.
Where to Buy RC Bodies and Paint in the Philippines
Tamiya PS paint cans and masking tape are available at most hobby shops — find your nearest one at RCPinas.com/shops. For body shells, check both local hobby shops and Shopee, where a wide range of 1:10 Lexan bodies for popular platforms (Traxxas, SCX10, Yokomo drift) are available from ₱400–₱2,500. Spaz Stix and specialty paints are best sourced via Shopee import sellers or through the RCPinas marketplace where hobbyists sometimes sell leftover paints.
For tips, color scheme inspiration, and technique advice from Filipino RC painters, join the RCPinas community. Members regularly share their finished body builds and are happy to walk beginners through the process.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular spray paint on an RC Lexan body?
No — regular automotive or hardware store spray paint is not formulated for polycarbonate and will not adhere properly. It will initially look fine but will flake and peel within a few runs. You must use paint specifically formulated for polycarbonate/Lexan, such as Tamiya PS series, Spaz Stix, or Pactra RC paints.
Why do I paint the inside of an RC body instead of the outside?
Lexan/polycarbonate bodies are designed to be painted from the inside so that the clear outer shell acts as a built-in protective clear coat. The paint is protected by the polycarbonate from scratches, rocks, and debris. It also means you never need to apply a separate clear coat — saving time, weight, and materials.
Where can I buy Tamiya PS paint in the Philippines?
Tamiya PS paint is widely available at RC and hobby shops across Metro Manila, Cebu, and Davao. Check RCPinas.com/shops for a directory of local stores. Online, Shopee has multiple sellers offering Tamiya PS cans for ₱280–₱380 each. Buy from sellers with strong ratings and verified product photos.
How long does Lexan paint take to dry in the Philippines?
In Philippine conditions (high humidity, warm temperatures), allow at least 30–45 minutes between coats of PC paint. High humidity can cause paint to blush if you rush. A full paint job should cure for at least 24 hours before trimming and mounting. If you are painting in an air-conditioned room at lower humidity, dry times may be slightly shorter but patience always pays off with better results.
What is the best RC body paint scheme for beginners?
Start with a two-color scheme — for example, a white base with a bold color racing stripe or number panel. Use a single color first on the areas you want to show through the most, mask those areas off, then apply the second color. Finish with a white or black backer. This approach is achievable on a first attempt and teaches you the core technique before moving on to complex multi-color designs or masking shapes.
